{"id":34405,"date":"2026-08-14T20:32:25","date_gmt":"2026-08-14T19:32:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lucileateliersdesigns.com\/?p=34405"},"modified":"2026-08-14T20:40:24","modified_gmt":"2026-08-14T19:40:24","slug":"how-to-choose-the-right-knitting-size-the-complete-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lucileateliersdesigns.com\/en\/how-to-choose-the-right-knitting-size-the-complete-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Choose the Right Knitting Size: The Complete Guide"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

“I’m a size 10 (UK), so which size should I pick?” That’s the question I get asked most often before starting a new knit. The sizes offered in a pattern are necessarily tied to standards. None of them ever perfectly matches an individual body shape, and won’t necessarily match all your measurements within a single size (back width, bust, arm length\u2026). And that’s a good thing: the whole advantage of knitting your own clothes is precisely being able to adapt them to yourself. So I invite you to think of each size offered in a pattern as a base for creation, not as a box you absolutely have to fit into. Let’s go through how to choose the best size. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Numbered Sizes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In my patterns, you’ll never find sizes “34, 38, 40\u2026”. I deliberately use numbered sizes (1, 2, 3\u2026), because ready-to-wear sizes are misleading: they vary from one brand to another, sometimes even from one collection to the next within the same designer. So a size 38 doesn’t really mean much on its own. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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My sizes don’t fit into those standards, and that’s on purpose: it “forces” you to choose based on your own measurements rather than a label, and to make sure you’re choosing the size best suited to you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Reference Measurement: The Starting Point<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In a pattern, I always offer you a reference measurement to choose your size. For a sweater, it’s generally the bust measurement<\/strong>, since it’s most often the widest part of the garment, so the one you’ll need to be comfortable in. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

But depending on the construction of the garment (particularly its sleeves and shoulders), I also invite you to look at the back width<\/strong> measurement too. I note it in my patterns, particularly when it’s a set-in sleeve design. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

On sweaters and tops with set-in sleeves, the back width needs to match between the knit and your measurements: it’s what gives a nice drape, it’s the key measurement for this type of construction.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Conversely, on a drop-shoulder (or dropped-shoulder) design, the back width matters much less: the width of the top of the sweater is wider than your body measurements anyway, so it’s less decisive for the final result.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Meadow sweater<\/a> has a drop hammer-sleeve construction.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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The Sea Me top<\/a> is constructed with set-in sleeves.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

In practice: if your reference measurement (bust) matches a pattern size well, but the back width for that same size is too wide for a set-in sleeve design, I’d advise choosing the size that matches your back width instead, then adding a few stitches to adjust the bust to your liking. I’m actually preparing an ebook on adapting sweaters to body shapes, which will go much further on this topic \u2014 I’ll tell you more very soon! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Understanding Ease: The Key to Adjusting the Result<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Ease is the difference between your real body measurements and the measurements of your finished knit. I always give a recommended ease in my patterns, and it’s what will guide you: <\/p>\n\n\n\n